The Textile Conservation Centre

Dr Mary M. Brooks Publications

Mary M. Brooks PhD MA DMS DipTexCon FIIC ACR FHEA. Reader, Programme Leader MA Museums & Galleries.

For a summary of Mary M Brooks' doctoral research, 'Innovation, invention and failure: the case of regenerated protein fibres', please see the pdf attached at the bottom of this page.

Since 2009 - Joint editor Textile History

BROOKS, M., M. 2014. ‘Wrought very hard’. Ashmolean Museum – exhibition of 17th century embroidery ‘The Eye of the Needle’. Country Life 13 August 2014, 70-73. 

BROOKS, M. M. 2014. Decay, preservation and the making of meaning. In: P. SMITH, ed. Ways of Making and Knowing: The Material Culture of Empirical Knowledge. Postprints of the 2005 Conference. Wellcome Centre for the History of Medicine at University College London and Yale Centre for British Art and the Wellcome Trust. University of Michigan Press, 377-404
 

BROOKS, M. M. 2014. ‘Indisputable authenticity’: engaging with the real in the museum. In:Hermens, E. & Lennard, F., eds. ‘The Real Thing?’ The Value of Authenticity and Replication for Investigation and Conservation. London: Archetype Publications, 3-10. 

DOVGAN NURSE, L. EASTOP, D. and BROOKS, M. M.. 2014. Authenticity in the revival of Orthodox ecclesiastical embroidery in post-Soviet Russia. In: HERMENS, E. & LENNARD, F., eds. ‘The Real Thing?’ The Value of Authenticity and Replication for Investigation and Conservation.
London: Archetype Publications, 74-85.
 
BROOKS, M. M. 2013. ‘No less dangerous to use than that of a Basilisk’: skin and seventeenth century English embroideries. In: G. ADAMSON & V. KELLEY, eds. Surface Tensions. Surface. Finish and the Meaning of Objects. Manchester: Manchester University Press, 98-110 and Plates 16, 17, 18 & 19.
 
BROOKS, M. M. 2013. 'Culture and Anarchy': considering conservation. In: WILLIAMS, E. The Public Face
of Conservation. London: Archetype Publications in association with Colonial Williamsburg, 1-7.
 
BROOKS, M. M. 2012. Seeing the sacred: conflicting priorities in defining, interpreting and conserving Western sacred artefacts. Material Religion, 8(1), 10-29.
 

BROOKS, M. M. 2012. Conserving textiles and dress accessories for the ‘Extending Kirkgate’ Project, York Castle Museum, 2011-2012. York Conservation Consortium Newsletter, [4].

BROOKS, M. M. 2011-12. ‘Another freak of fashion’: Collectors, collecting, connoisseurship and changing views of 17th century English embroideries. Text, 39, 12-17.

BROOKS, M. M. 2012. ‘Talking Textiles’: A Monument Fellowship, York Castle Museum 2010-2011. DATS Newsletter, 18-24.

BROOKS, M. M. 2012. Seeing the sacred: conflicting priorities in defining, interpreting and conserving Western sacred artefacts. Material Religion, 8(1), 10-29.

O’CONNOR, S. A. & BROOKS, M. M. 2011. X-radiography of Textiles, Dress and Related Objects. Amsterdam: Butterworth-Heinemann / Elsevier India.

BROOKS, M. M., FELLER, E. & J. HOLDSWORTH. 2011. Micheál & Elizabeth Feller: The Needlework Collection I. [Guildford]: Needleprint.

BROOKS, M. M. 2011. Sharing conservation ethics, practice and decision-making with museum visitors. In: J. MARSTINE, ed. Routledge Companion to Museum Ethics: Redefining Ethics for the Twenty-First Century Museum. London: Routledge, 332-349.

NESS, C. & BROOKS, M. M. 2011. Re-discovering Mattli, a forgotten 1950s London couturier. Costume, 85-100.

BROOKS, M.M. & EASTOP, D. D., eds. 2011. Changing Views of Textile Conservation. Readings in Textile Conservation. Los Angeles: Getty Conservation Institute.(Reviewed by Maria Jordan. ICON News, November 2011, 27; by Joanna Hackett, Textile
History, May 2012))

BROOKS, M. M. 2011. ‘Hats. A Celebration of the Hat’: An exhibition at York City Art Gallery. DATS
Spring Journal,
33-37.

BROOKS. M. M. & CREIGHTON, J. 2010. Objects of Learning. Sustaining the Benefits of using the University’s Museums, Archives & Special Collections in Learning and Teaching. Internal report, University of Reading.

BROOKS, M. M. 2010. Caring for Textiles & Vestments in Parish Churches. In: L. HANSON., ed. The Story of the Church in England: Part I - the Parish Church. York University/St John’s College, Nottingham. Christianity and Culture. (CD-Rom format.)

BROOKS, M. M. 2010. La conservazione degli oggetti della moda (The conservation of fashionable objects) In: M. G. MUZZARIELLI, G. RIELLO & E. T. BRANDI, eds. Storie di Moda (Fashion-able Histories). Milan: Bruno Mondadori (Publishers), 169-179.

Brooks, M. M. 2009. Regenerated protein fibres: a review. In: S. Eichhorn, J.W. S. Hearle, M. Jaffe & T. Kikutani,, eds. Handbook of Textile Fibre Structure: Natural, Regenerated, Inorganic and Specialist fibres. (Vol. 2.) Cambridge: Woodhead, 234-265 www.woodheadpublishing.com/7303

BROOKS, M. M. 2009. Stitches in time. The World of Interiors, June, 100-105.

BROOKS, M. M. Bisso Marino Fili d’Oro dal Fondo del Mare / Muschelseide Goldene Fäden vom Meeresgrund Villa Ciani, Lugano, Switzerland 18 October 2008-1 March 2009. (Exhibition review.) Textile History, 40 (1), 118-122.

BROOKS, M.M. 2009. ‘My most treasured pieces’. Textiles from the Henry Ginsburg Collection, Temple Newsam House, Leeds, 25 November 2008-29 March 2009. [Exhibition Review.] Textile History, 40 (1), 126-127.

BROOKS, M.M. 2009. Courtauld History of Textiles and Dress (CHODA), Courtauld Institute of Art, London, 27–28 June 2008 [Conference Review.] Textile History, 40 (1), 113-114.

BROOKS, M. M. 2008. Santina M Levey: ‘The Embroideries at Hardwick Hall. A Catalogue.’ ( Review.) Textile History, 39 (2), 277-278.

BROOKS, M. M. 2008. ‘Mission Impossible. Ethics and Choices in Conservation.’ (Exhibition Review.) ICOM Task Force Newsletter, 2, [3-5].

BROOKS, M.M. 2008. Talking to ourselves. Why do conservators find it so hard to convince others of the significance of conservation? In: J. BRIDGLAND, ed. Preprints ICOM Committee for Conservation, 15th Triennial Conference New Delhi, 22-26 September 2008. New Delhi: Allied Publishers, 1135-1140.

LENNARD, F. and BROOKS, M.M. 2008. Looking forward, looking back: Revisiting the development of interlinked conservation and curatorial Masters programmes – a further perspective. In: J.BRIDGLAND, ed. Preprints ICOM Committee for Conservation, 15th Triennial Conference New Delhi, 22-26 September 2008. New Delhi: Allied Publishers, 109-115.

O’CONNOR, S., BROOKS, M. M., FAGAN, M. J. & BOURET, S. 2008. Innovation in the X-radiography of textiles: using computed tomography imaging techniques. In: J. BRIDGLAND, ed. Preprints ICOM Committee for Conservation, 15th Triennial Conference New Delhi, 22-26 September 2008. New Delhi: Allied Publishers, 554-560.

BROOKS, M. M. and LENNARD, F. 2008. Looking forward, looking back: Revisiting the development of interlinked conservation and curatorial Masters programmes. In: T. RUUBEN, ed. Proceedings of the Interim Meeting ICOM Committee for Conservation Working Group Education & Training in Conservation. April 20-22, 2007, Academy of Fine Arts Vienna. Vantaa, Finland: ICOM Committee for Conservation Working Group Education & Training in Conservation, 35-40.

PYE, E. and BROOKS, M. M. 2008. External examining: exploring the benefits of integrated peer review for conservation masters programmes. In: T. RUUBEN, ed. Proceedings of the Interim Meeting ICOM Committee for Conservation Working Group Education & Training in Conservation. April 20-22, 2007, Academy of Fine Arts Vienna. Vantaa, Finland: ICOM CC Working Group Education & Training in Conservation, 11-18.

BROOKS, M.M. and RUMSEY, C. 2007. ‘Who knows the fate of his bones?’ Rethinking the body on display: object, art or human remains? In: S. J. KNELL, S. MACLEOD and S. WATSON, eds. Museum Revolutions: How Museums Change and are Changed. London & New York: Routledge, 343-354.

BROOKS, M.M. 2007. Recovering identity: the role of textual evidence in identifying forgotten Azlon fibres from the mid-20th century. In: M. HAYWARD and E. KRAMER, eds. Textiles and Text: Re-establishing the Links Between Archival and Object-Based Research. Postprints of the Third AHRC Research Centre for Textile Conservation and Textile Studies Conference, 2006. London: Archetype, 29-33.

MORRIS, B. and BROOKS, M.M. 2007. Jewish ceremonial textiles and the Torah: exploring conservation practices in relation to ritual textiles associated with holy texts. In: M. HAYWARD and E. KRAMER, eds. Textiles and Text: Re-establishing the Links between Archival and Object-Based Research. Postprints of the Third AHRC Research Centre for Textile Conservation and Textile Studies Conference, 2006. London: Archetype, 244-248.

BROOKS, M. M. and EASTOP, D. 2007. Integration, curation and conservation – recent developments at the Textile Conservation Centre, UK. Context (Journal of the New Zealand Costume & Textile Section, Auckland Museum Institute), 13, 16-17.

BROOKS, M. M. 2007. ‘Balenciaga Paris’ and ‘Showtime. Le defile de Mode’. (Exhibition Review.) Textile History, 38 (1), 117-120.

O’CONNOR, S. A. and BROOKS, M. M. 2007. X-radiography of Textiles, Dress and Related Objects. Oxford: Elsevier.

BROOKS, M. M. and O’CONNOR, S. A. 2007. Looking into the past: the potential of X-radiography as an investigative technique for archaeological and ethnographic textiles. In: E.CORTES and THOMASSEN-KRAUSS, eds. Recovering the Past: The Conservation of Archaeological & Ethnographic Textiles. Preprints North American Textile Conservation Conference, Mexico, 9-11 November 2005. USA: North American Textile Conservation Conference, 87-97.

BROOKS, M. M. 2007. Valuing collections. (Book Review.) ICON News, 8, 41-43.

BROOKS, M. M. and ROSE, M. 2006. Contextualising textiles. Using documentary evidence to retrieve evidence for regenerated protein fibres. In: D. SAUNDERS, J. H. TOWNSEND and S. WOODCOCK, eds. The Object in Context: Crossing Conservation Boundaries. London: International Institute of Conservation, 82-88.

BROOKS, M. M. and EASTOP, D. 2006. Matter out of place: paradigms for analyzing textile cleaning. Journal of the American Institute of Conservation, 45 (3), 171-181.

BROOKS, M. M. and RUMSEY, C. 2006. The body in the museum. In: V.CASSMAN, N. ODEGAARD and J. POWELL, eds. Human Remains: A Guide for Conservators, Museums, Universities, and Law Enforcement Agencies. Lanham, MD: Altamira Press, 261-289.

BROOKS, M. M. 2006. Forgotten fibres? Issues in the collecting and conservation of regenerated protein fibres of forgotten fibres: The development, disappearance and rediscovery of regenerated protein fibres. In: C. ROGERSON and P. GARSIDE, eds. The Future of the Twentieth Century: Collecting, Interpreting and Conserving Modern Materials. AHRC Research Centre for Textile Conservation & Textiles Studies, Second Annual Conference. Textile Conservation Centre, 26-28 July 2005.London: Archetype, 33-40.

GARSIDE, P. and BROOKS, M. M. 2006. Probing the microstructures of protein and polyamide fibres. In: C ROGERSON and P. GARSIDE, eds. The Future of the Twentieth Century: Collecting, Interpreting and Conserving Modern Materials. AHRC Research Centre for Textile Conservation & Textiles Studies, Second Annual Conference. Textile Conservation Centre, 26-28 July 2005. London: Archetype, 67-71.

BROOKS, M. M. 2006. Fibres from soyabeans - their past, present and future. In: R.S. BLACKBURN and E. STARR, eds. Biodegradable and Sustainable Fibres. Cambridge: Woodhead Publishing, 369-440.

BROOKS, M. M. and O'CONNOR, S. A. 2005. Making the invisible visible: the potential of X-radiography as an investigative technique for textile conservation decision-making. In: I. VERGER, ed. Preprints ICOM Committee for Conservation 14th Triennial Meeting, The Hague 12-16 September 2005. London: James & James, 954-962

BROOKS, M. M. and O’CONNOR, S. A. 2005. New Insights into textiles: The potential of X-radiography as an investigative technique. In: R. JANAWAY and P. WYETH, eds.Scientific Analysis of Ancient & Historic Textiles. Informing Preservation, Display and Interpretation. Postprints, AHRB Research Centre for Textile Conservation & Textile Studies, Second Annual Conference. Textile Conservation Centre, 13-15 July 2004. London: Archetype Press, 168-176.

DOKOS, L. and BROOKS, M. M. 2005. Smart and techno fabrics: fundamental properties of new fibres and their future. V&A Conservation Journal, 51, 12-13.

BROOKS, M. M. and GARSIDE, P. 2005. Investigating the significance and characteristics of modern regenerated protein fibres. In: PARISI, C., BUZZANCA, G. and PARADISI, A., eds. Art ’05. Proceedings of the 8th International Conference on Non-Destructive Investigations and Microanalysis for the Diagnostics and Conservation of the Cultural and Environmental Heritage. Lecce (Italy), 15-19 May 2005. (Italian Society for Non-Destructive Testing Monitoring Diagnostics, Ministry of Cultural Heritage and Activities, Central Institute of Restoration & Department of Materials Science, University of Lecce.) Lecce: University of Lecce, 1-14 (CD-Rom format).

BROOKS, M. M 2005. Forgotten fibres. New Boundaries, April, 1, 26-29.

BROOKS, M. M. and O’CONNOR, S. 2004. Revealing the hidden: the X-radiography of textiles. NPO Electronic Journal, November, 3pps (unpaginated).

BROOKS, M. M. and ZAGORSKA-THOMAS, N. 2004. ICOM Costume Committee Meeting 'Cross Roads of Fashion and Textiles in Poland'. The National Museum, Krakow,Poland, 28 September-3 October 2003. ICOM Committee for Conservation Textiles Working Group Newsletter, 20, 5-7.

BROOKS, M.M. 2004. English Embroideries of the Sixteenth and Seventeenth Centuries in the Collection of the Ashmolean Museum. Oxford & London: Ashmolean Museum / Jonathan Horne Publications.

BROOKS, M.M. 2003. 'Curious Works': English 16th and 17th century embroideries at the Ashmolean. The Ashmolean, 45, 8-10.

BROOKS, M.M. 2002. Embroidered Panel. (Catalogue entry.) In: S. J. SIMPSON, ed. Queen of Sheba. Treasures from Ancient Yemen. London: British Museum Press, 49.

BROOKS, M.M. 2002. 'Curious Works.’ English Seventeenth Century Embroideries at the Ashmolean Museum, Oxford. In: M. SCHOEFER-MASSON, ed. Preprints of the 4thEhemaligentreffen der Abegg-Stiftung, 1-2 November 2002. Riggisberg: Abegg-Stiftung, 4pp (unpaginated).

BROOKS, M. M. 2002. A Chippendale bed cornice conserved. In: G. BEARD, ed. Country Houses and Collections. An Anthology. Clifford, W. Yorkshire: The Attingham Trust, 134-135.

BROOKS, M. M. 2002. Cultivating fibers from soybeans. News about Industrial Products made from Soybeans. 3 (8) (unpaginated). See http://www.unitedsoybean.org/lib

BROOKS, M.M. and FRANCOIS, S. 2002. Communication and technology: assessing the potential of distance learning experience in career entry and CPD in conservation education. In: R. VONTOBEL, ed. 13th Triennial Meeting Rio, Brazil September 2002. ICOM Committee for Conservation Preprints. London: James & James (Science Publishers), 125-131.

BROOKS, M.M. 2001. The landscape of language: representations of textiles. Writing about seventeenth century raised work embroidery. In: B. KING, J. HARRIS. J. HEELEY and M. MILLER, eds. Textiles: What is Critical? Papers presented at a Conference organised by the North West Textile Forum at Whitworth Art Gallery, Manchester, 29-30 September, 2000, 51-58.